Solid Hardwood vs Engineered Hardwood vs Luxury Vinyl: Which Should You Choose?

Solid Hardwood vs Engineered Hardwood vs Luxury Vinyl: Which Should You Choose?

An honest comparison to help you make the right flooring decision for your home

---

You’re standing in a flooring showroom (or scrolling through websites at 11 PM), overwhelmed by choices. Solid hardwood? Engineered hardwood? Luxury vinyl plank? Everyone has an opinion, and they all contradict each other.

Your in-laws swear by waterproof vinyl. Your contractor recommends engineered. Your best friend just installed solid hardwood and loves it. Meanwhile, you’re still staring at carpet you desperately want to replace, paralyzed by indecision.

Sound familiar?

Here’s the truth: there’s no universally “best” flooring. But there IS a best flooring for YOUR situation — your home, your lifestyle, your pets, your budget, and yes, your emotional connection to what a floor should feel like.

Let’s break down all three options honestly, so you can make a confident decision.

But first, have a look at our Cambridge, Ontario, showroom:

---

Understanding the Three Options

Solid Hardwood Flooring

Solid hardwood is exactly what it sounds like: a plank of wood cut from a single piece of timber, typically 3/4″ thick. It’s the traditional hardwood floor you find in homes built 50, 80, even 100+ years ago — and yes, many of those original floors are still beautiful today.

Construction: One solid piece of wood (oak, maple, hickory, walnut, etc.) from top to bottom

Thickness: Usually 3/4″ (can be sanded and refinished multiple times)

Installation: Nail-down or glue-down over wood subfloors (not suitable over concrete)

Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Engineered hardwood has a real hardwood veneer (top layer) bonded to multiple layers of plywood or high-density fiberboard underneath. It’s not “fake” wood — the surface you see and walk on is genuine hardwood. The engineered construction provides dimensional stability.

Construction: Real hardwood veneer (1.5mm to 6mm thick) over plywood core

Thickness: Typically 3/8″ to 5/8″ total thickness

Installation: Can be glued, nailed, or floated; works over concrete

Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)

Modern luxury vinyl plank uses high-resolution photography and embossing to replicate wood grain. It’s completely synthetic but has evolved dramatically from the vinyl of previous decades.

Construction: Printed photographic layer protected by clear wear layer, over vinyl core

Thickness: 2mm to 8mm (thicker = more durable, better sound)

Installation: Floating (click-lock) or glue-down; extremely versatile

---

The Honest Comparison

Feature	Solid Hardwood	Engineered Hardwood	Luxury Vinyl
Lifespan	50-100+ years	30-50 years	15-25 years
Refinishing	5-10 times	1-3 times (depends on veneer thickness)	Cannot be refinished
Water Resistance	Poor (damage from standing water)	Moderate (better than solid)	Excellent (100% waterproof)
Cost (Material)	$6-15/sq ft	$4-10/sq ft	$2-8/sq ft
Installation Cost	$4-8/sq ft	$3-6/sq ft	$1.50-4/sq ft (DIY-friendly)
Resale Value	High (increases home value)	Moderate	Neutral (doesn’t add value)
Climate Stability	Expands/contracts with humidity	Very stable	Extremely stable
Pet Friendly	Moderate (scratches visible)	Moderate (scratches visible)	Excellent (scratch resistant)
Feel Underfoot	Warm, natural, solid	Warm, natural, solid	Cooler, softer, synthetic feel
Basement Installation	Not recommended	Yes (with proper prep)	Yes

---

Solid Hardwood: The Timeless Choice

Let’s start with what draws people to solid hardwood — because it’s often emotional, not just practical.

This emotional connection matters. If vinyl floors — no matter how practical — are going to make you feel like you compromised on your dream home, that’s a real cost that doesn’t show up on any invoice.

When Solid Hardwood Makes Sense

You should choose solid hardwood if:

• This is your long-term or forever home (10+ years)
• You have above-grade installation (not basement or over concrete slab)
• You value authenticity and natural materials
• You’re okay with visible character (scratches become “patina” not “damage”)
• You want maximum refinishing potential
• Resale value matters and you’re in a market where buyers expect real hardwood
• You can maintain reasonable humidity levels in your home (35-55%)
• Budget allows for the higher upfront investment

The Site-Finished vs Pre-Finished Decision

If you choose solid hardwood, this is THE critical decision most people don’t know about:

Pre-finished hardwood comes from the factory with finish already applied. It’s faster to install (walk on it immediately), but here’s the problem: the finish only covers the top of each board. The gaps between boards are unfinished and exposed.

When your dog has an accident, when you spill wine, when you mop — that liquid seeps down between the boards and soaks into the unfinished wood. Over time, these gaps turn black, boards warp, and the wood gets damaged from within.

Site-finished hardwood (also called sand-and-finish or unfinished) gets sanded and finished AFTER installation. The finish coats cover the entire floor surface — including the gaps between boards — creating a sealed, smooth surface from wall to wall.

The verdict: Site-finished costs more and takes longer (you’ll need to stay elsewhere for a few days due to fumes), but it creates a superior, more durable floor that resists moisture damage far better than pre-finished.

If you have pets or children, site-finished is worth every extra dollar.

Species Matter: Janka Hardness Ratings

Not all hardwoods are created equal. The Janka hardness test measures resistance to denting and wear:

• Brazilian Cherry: 2,350 (extremely hard, exotic, expensive)
• Hickory: 1,820 (hardest common domestic species)
• Hard Maple: 1,450 (very durable)
• White Oak: 1,360 (classic, durable, beautiful)
• Red Oak: 1,290 (most popular, good balance of cost and durability)
• Ash: 1,320 (holds up well in high traffic)
• Walnut: 1,010 (beautiful but softer, shows wear)
• Cherry: 950 (gorgeous but dents easily)

Real-world advice: If you have large dogs, kids, or high traffic, choose hickory, hard maple, or oak. Save walnut and cherry for low-traffic areas like bedrooms.

One homeowner with an 80-lb dog and solid hickory floors reported only “minor surface scratches that aren’t noticeable and could be buffed out easily” after years of use. Another with softer walnut in the kitchen called it “a scratched up mess” after the same period.

Species matters.

---

Engineered Hardwood: The Practical Middle Ground

Engineered hardwood offers many benefits of solid hardwood with greater versatility and stability.

When Engineered Hardwood Makes Sense

You should choose engineered hardwood if:

• You’re installing over concrete (basement, slab foundation, condo)
• Your home has significant humidity fluctuations
• You have radiant floor heating
• You want wider planks (8″, 9″, 10″+) with less expansion/contraction risk
• You want real wood appearance and feel at moderate cost
• Your climate has extreme seasonal changes
• You need faster, easier installation than solid hardwood

The Veneer Thickness Decision

When choosing engineered hardwood, veneer thickness is critical:

• 1.5mm to 2mm veneer: Cannot be refinished; basically disposable flooring
• 3mm veneer: Might survive one light sanding
• 4mm to 6mm veneer: Can be refinished 1-3 times; worth the investment

If you’re paying for engineered hardwood, get thick veneer or you’re wasting money on flooring you can’t maintain long-term.

---

Luxury Vinyl Plank: The Practical Choice

Let’s address the elephant in the room: many flooring enthusiasts and designers look down on luxury vinyl. They call it “cheap,” “plastic,” “rental-grade.”

But here’s what they’re missing: LVP has a specific purpose and does that job extremely well.

When Luxury Vinyl Makes Sense

You should choose luxury vinyl if:

• You have pets that frequently have accidents or messy behaviors
• Budget is a primary concern
• You rent out the property
• The space has moisture exposure (bathrooms, laundry rooms, mudrooms, basements)
• You need DIY-friendly installation
• You plan to remodel again in 10-15 years anyway
• You prioritize easy maintenance over authenticity
• You have young children prone to spills

The Quality Spectrum in LVP

Not all luxury vinyl is created equal:

Budget LVP ($2-3/sq ft): Thin wear layer, limited warranty, noticeable texture, looks fake up close

Mid-range LVP ($3-5/sq ft): Better wear layer (12-20 mil), realistic printing, good warranties

Premium LVP ($5-8/sq ft): Thick wear layer (20+ mil), embossed texture, lifetime warranties, can fool most people

If you’re going vinyl, invest in quality. Cheap vinyl looks cheap and wears quickly. Premium vinyl can actually look quite good and last its full rated lifespan.

---

The Real-World Decision Framework

Choose SOLID HARDWOOD if:

Choose ENGINEERED HARDWOOD if:

Choose LUXURY VINYL if:

---

What About Mixing All Three?

Here’s a strategy many homeowners use successfully:

• Main living areas (living room, dining room, hallways): Solid or engineered hardwood
• Bedrooms: Solid or engineered hardwood (low traffic, worth the investment)
• Basement: Engineered hardwood (if dry) or luxury vinyl
• Bathrooms, laundry, mudroom: Luxury vinyl or tile
• Kitchen: Hardwood (if careful) or luxury vinyl (if practical)

Using the right material in the right location maximizes value and performance.

---

The Pet Question Everyone Asks

Let’s be direct: all flooring shows pet damage eventually. The question is how much damage you’ll tolerate and how you’ll address it.

With hardwood (solid or engineered):

• Dog claws create micro-scratches (mostly in the finish, not the wood)
• Trim nails regularly to minimize damage
• Use area rugs in high-traffic zones
• Accept that scratches will happen and add character
• Plan to refinish every 10-15 years to restore appearance
• Choose harder species (hickory, oak) not softer woods (walnut, cherry)
• Site-finished floors resist pet accidents better than pre-finished

Real homeowner with solid hickory and two dogs: “All we have are some very tiny micro scratches from the dog’s claws over the last 10 years. The floors still look great and have not been refinished.”

With luxury vinyl:

• Scratches are rare (vinyl is harder than wood)
• Accidents don’t damage the floor
• But you can’t refinish it — when it’s worn, it’s replaced

The honest truth: If your pets are truly destructive or have frequent accidents that aren’t cleaned quickly, vinyl makes sense. But if your pets are reasonably well-behaved and you’re willing to do basic maintenance, hardwood holds up better than people think.

Many homeowners with hardwood and pets say they’d make the same choice again.

---

Cost Reality Check

Let’s talk real numbers for 1,000 square feet of flooring:

Solid Hardwood (Mid-Range Red Oak)

• Materials: $6,000-$8,000
• Installation: $4,000-$6,000
• Total: $10,000-$14,000
• Lifespan: 50-100+ years
• Cost per year (50 years): $200-$280

Engineered Hardwood (Quality)

• Materials: $4,000-$6,000
• Installation: $3,000-$5,000
• Total: $7,000-$11,000
• Lifespan: 30-40 years
• Cost per year (35 years): $200-$314

Luxury Vinyl (Premium)

• Materials: $3,000-$5,000
• Installation: $2,000-$4,000 (or DIY)
• Total: $5,000-$9,000
• Lifespan: 15-20 years
• Cost per year (17.5 years): $286-$514

The surprising truth: Solid hardwood’s higher upfront cost is offset by its extreme longevity. Over time, it’s often the most economical choice — and that’s before considering resale value.

Luxury vinyl seems cheap initially but needs complete replacement in 15-20 years. Install it twice over 40 years and you’ve spent nearly as much as solid hardwood that lasts 100 years.

---

Making Your Final Decision

Here’s what this really comes down to:

If you’re building your dream home and plan to stay: Solid hardwood. You’ll never regret having real wood floors that develop character and beauty over decades. Choose harder species, site-finished installation, and enjoy them for a lifetime.

If you need versatility (basement, concrete, radiant heat): Engineered hardwood with thick veneer (4mm+). You get real wood performance with modern installation flexibility.

If budget is tight or you have genuinely messy pets: Quality luxury vinyl ($5+/sq ft). It does its job well, requires zero maintenance, and you can replace it in 15 years when you’re ready to upgrade to hardwood.

If you’re flipping or renting: Luxury vinyl. Fast, cheap, durable enough for the purpose.

---

Where to Go From Here

Now that you understand the real differences, here’s what to do next:

1. Visit a showroom in person. See and touch all three options. Walk on them barefoot. Feel the difference.
2. Take samples home. View them in your actual lighting. Live with them for a few days.
3. Get written quotes for your specific project with all costs included.
4. Ask about warranties — what’s actually covered and for how long.
5. Check installer experience — especially critical for hardwood.
6. Consider your timeline — how long will you actually live there?
7. Think about maintenance honestly — will you actually do it?
8. Trust your gut — after research, your instinct is usually right.

---

---

Final Thoughts

There’s no wrong choice here — only the wrong choice for you.

Solid hardwood isn’t “better” than vinyl any more than a sports car is “better” than a minivan. They serve different purposes, different lifestyles, different priorities.

What matters is choosing the flooring that matches your situation: your home, your budget, your timeline, your pets, your maintenance willingness, and yes, your emotional connection to what makes a house feel like home.

Make that choice confidently, install it properly, maintain it appropriately, and you’ll be happy with your floors for years to come.

Good luck with your decision!